A Guide to Inverness & the Scottish Highlands
We spent the first 6 months of 2021 living by the beautiful waters of the Beauly Firth in Inverness, spotting otters and seals from our window and exploring the Highlands at a gentle pace from Scotland’s northernmost city.
What Inverness lacks in the striking historical drama of Edinburgh or the phenomenal culture of Glasgow, it makes up for in access to the most stunning landscapes and a more peaceful way of life. Most often the starting point for the NC500, (Scotland’s answer to Route 66) Inverness is one of Scotland’s best wee cities.
If you only do one thing (I’m looking at you Outlander fans with a tightly packed schedule of shooting locations to visit), stroll along the river and onto Ness Islands. A series of small interconnected isles linked by beautiful wrought iron and suspension bridges, so peaceful you would hardly believe you’re close to the heart of the city. At night twinkling lights through the trees and the gushing river soundtrack give the islands a magical quality.
The View from Kessock Bridge
The Woods on Ness Island
Peak Lockdown + The Epitome of Glamour
Where To Stay in Inverness:
Tangle Tower
Located on the stunning shoreline between Beauly Firth and Moray Firth, this former watchtower and coastguard station has been beautifully converted into a quirky getaway with stunning views across the water.
Website
The Whisky Townhouse
Dan & Vairi’s 3 bedroom townhouse is just 5 minutes walk from the city centre, sleeps up to 6 guests and was renovated in partnership with Chivas Regal (expect cosy, moody lighting and brilliant attention to detail).
Luxury Riverside Apartment
This spacious and bright ground floor apartment, with free parking is located less than 15 minutes walk from the City Centre. With amazing views of the River Ness, Harbour and Kessock Bridge. George is the nicest host you could ever meet!
An Iùbhrach (The Yew Grove)
Featured on BBC TV & radio, An Iùbhrach (The Yew Grove) is a gorgeous Inverness apartment. Locally owned & operated by the loveliest people, purpose-designed, socially & environmentally responsible - it ticks every box!
Stay Harbour View
Across the water in North Kessock (a pretty fishing village famous for dolphin sightings), this dreamy architect-designed house offers panoramic views of Inverness city.
Coffee + Takeaway Treats
Cup & Cone is my favourite coffee stop in town, with a mouthwatering cake selection and toasties so good I was once attacked by a seagull for my Monterey Jack + Chilli Jam on sourdough.
Perk Coffee + Doughnuts make one of the best flat whites in the Highlands and their monthly doughnut menu features flavours like “Inver Mess”.
The Bakery is a local institution, selling fluffy loaves, homemade sandwiches and coffees to go. Ness Walk Kiosk is perfectly located on the riverbanks to grab a coffee en route to the islands (they also stock The Bakery cakes, serve ice cream and tempting waffles-on-a-stick).
Wild Pancakes is a family owned organic cafe based in Inverness serving delicious brunches and takeaway pancake stacks. I love Story Chocolate in the Victorian arcade - husband and wife team Ingrid and Lucas Story moved from their native Belgium in 2002 and create the most delicious chocolates ever.
Eating + Drinking
Things To Do Within 30 Mins of Inverness*
Dolphins, Dolphins, Dolphins!
The Moray Firth is home to around 200 bottlenose dolphins (the most northerly colony in the world), who can regularly be spotted feasting on tasty salmon off the coast. Chanonry Point is widely considered to be the best place to spot them, especially from around 1 hour after low tide, when the dolphins start to chase fish in. Take a flask of something hot, binoculars and settle in for an incredible show. The Dolphin Spirit boat trips out into the firth are also a lot of fun, leaving from Inverness harbour.
Culloden
Visiting Culloden battlefield is a deeply emotive experience, with a detailed visitor’s centre which tells the story of both The Jacobites and Redcoats simultaneously and building tension to a moving climax I won’t spoil! Walking across the moor, marked with lines where the battle took place and Clan graves is profoundly atmospheric.
Nairn
Just 20 mins drive from Inverness, Nairn is the most charming seaside town, all soft fluffy dunes and pretty fisherman’s cottages. Strathnairn Beach Cafe serve fish tacos from heaven to take away and eat on the sand, and Sun Dancer Restaurant is a seafood restaurant that looks as though it might sail off the coast into the distance. We spent THE best morning in the woods with Bowhunter Archery learning the ins and outs of what to do with a bow and arrow.
Hiking
Rogie Falls is a nice easy circuit to hike, with rewarding views over the dramatic waterfalls - especially during salmon season, when you can spot them leaping improbable distances! Cnoc Fyrish is longer (and steeper) but with stunning views over the Black Isle to Cromarty from the top.
* Loch Ness is of course, a given! The mysterious body of water which needs no introduction…
Day Trips Further Afield
Ullapool
Ullapool is a small but mighty village less than an hour’s drive from Inverness. Watch the ferries roll in from the outer Hebrides or browse the sweet row of shops selling artisanal candles and mountaineering gear.
For such a tiny place, there is an impressive array of local businesses to choose from - The West Coast Deli and The Seafood Shack are fantastic (the latter sells the freshest west coast seafood). The Highland Liquor Co sells local beers and spirits, include their very own Ullapool Gin.
Don’t miss Corrieshalloch Gorge just outside of town - cross the suspension bridge if you dare as the land falls away into a deep slice à la Mordor.
Achmelvich Bay
In my opinion the most beautiful beach in Scotland, Achmelvich is spectacular.
Stop at Lochinver Larder for picnic supplies (their pies are world famous).
Overnight Trips
Harris
Drive to Ullapool and hop on the Cal Mac Ferry to Lewis. Stay at the stunning Blue Reef Cottages - turf roofed and blended into the hillside or wake up right on the beach at Oran na Mara. Don’t miss a visit to The Harris Social Distillery in Tarbert!
Skye
Stop off at Applecross and Plockton before driving across the Skye bridge from the mainland (blasting the Skye Boat Song as ye go). Unmissable sights include the Fairy Glen, Quiraing, The Old Man of Storr, Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls and the iconic sunsets at Neist Point. You can also visit the Talisker distillery or take a boat trip out to the Small Isles for dolphin and whale watching (basking sharks, dolphins and minke whales all live off the coastline).
Dine at The Oyster Shed, Hame On Skye or The Three Chimneys to celebrate something really special.
Stay at the epic Skye Red Fox Retreat for breathtaking views of the Trottenish Ridge and surrounding croft (farmland) or at the sleek Black H hideaway. Supernova is a unique chapel conversion overlooking Loch Harport with the cosiest interior imaginable.
On My Highland Bookshelf:
Some incredible people to follow who have written about and shared trips to the Highlands (and especially the West Coast, which I didn’t see as much of) are the super talented Caoilfhionn Rose and Amy Bell of The Little Magpie.
P.S. You might notice I haven’t included any nightlife, bar or distillery tips - as we were living under full lockdown we didn’t get to experience any! I’d love to hear all about your favourite spots in the comments below…